History
El Hierro is Spanish for ‘The Iron’ but it is thought that the island may have been called the ‘hero’ or ‘esero,’ by the ancient settlers and the name has been lost in translation over the years. The inhabitants of the island were originally from the African continent and were known as Bimbaches. They were a peaceful people and it is known they lived within a complex structure of social hierarchy. They lived primitively, in caves or very basic structures made with dry stones. There are a number of early primitive communications left on the island which are yet to be translated as well as a number of ancient graves and utensils.
The island of El Hierro was invaded in the 15th Century by Jean de Bethencourt along with the neighbouring islands of Lanzarote and Fuertaventura. The native Bimbaches could put up no meaningful defence and the island became colonised by the invading Europeans. The two communities shared the island and a manor system was established which endured until the 19th century.
Population
El Hierro is the smallest of the main Canary Islands and is the farthest west. The island was also the most westerly point known to the civilised ancient world, prior to the discovery of the New World. The tiny island is just 278 square kilometres and is home to a permanent population of only 10,000. There is only one significant town on the island called Valverde and the rest of the island is virtually desolate with smaller towns littering the countryside. The island was one third larger until 50,000 years ago when a massive earthquake caused much of the land to slip into the ocean. Tourism on the island is a significant part of the island’s wealth although compared to the main Canary Islands, it is extremely quiet. The volcanic island has a total of 500 volcanic peaks!
Places to Visit
The island is the farthest south within Spain’s territory and is known as the land that has the latest sunset in the whole country. The island is hugely popular with hikers and nature lovers. Ell Hierro is also considered to be a very popular diving location. The beaches are not sandy so the coastlines are almost untouched and offer people the peace and quiet that are more difficult to find on Tenerife and Lanzarote. The spectacular mountain scenery, evergreen countryside and stunning coastline make the island popular with ramblers and those looking for walking holidays.
Valverde – This is the island’s capital and main town. It sits at an altitude of 600 metres.
El Golfo – This is a spectacular looking area in the west of the island. It has been sculpted by centuries of volcanic activity.
Ermita de los Reyes – Every four years, a pilgrimage to the quaint chapel draws in visitors from all over the world.
The Garoe Region – This Garoe was a sacred tree of the local Bimbaches. Due to the trade-winds in the location, water from the branches of the trees condenses and pours as rain over the island. The Bimbaches legend was that the tree was a laurel tree that looked after the welfare of the island’s people. The original tree was blown down during a storm in the 17th century although a replacement was planted in 1957 which still stands today. The phenomenon of horizontal rain can be seen during foggy days.
The Frontera Rural National Park – This is home to several species of plant-life and wildlife that are specific to the area. There are also some natural rock formations to be seen at El Julan.
Cuisine
There are certainly no British pubs to be found on the island of Hierro. The island is virtually untouched by any tourism at all. There are, however, a few exceptional local restaurants that offer some of the specialities of the Canary Islands as well as some Spanish favourites. Fish is predictably the main component of El Hierro menus, although there are also a number of meat dishes to enjoy. Stews such as potaje are a local favourite as well as puchero, a meat-based stew that has been eaten on the island for centuries.
Another local rustic favourite is rancho con papas or meat with potatoes. The side dish specific to all of the Canary Islands is arrugadas which are ‘wrinkled’ potatoes, boiled in salted water. The mojo sauces are prevalent in all of the authentic Canarian islands with mojo rojo being the spicy red version of the sauce. Rabbit and goat are also staple meats of the islanders.
A food that has endured many centuries on the island is gofio or toasted cornmeal, which is usually mixed with water, milk or wine and roasted with lard. It can then be used to make desserts or breakfasts. The island’s famous quesadillas are a dessert made with cheese. The cheese has to me made locally on the island for the quesadillas to be authentic. Cheese is also one of the main exports of the island and El Hierro Cheese is consumed all over Spain. There is also a major wine company based in El Golfo which exports wines all over the world.
Accommodation
While accommodation is available in all of the towns on the island, there are actually only around 800 beds available. There are several holiday apartments to choose from as well as some small hotels and guest houses. The demand for accommodation on the island is increasing every year as people look for more secluded and untouched holiday destinations, away from the noise and disruption of the major Spanish resorts. The number of rooms available isn’t increasing at the same pace, so it is vital that rooms are booked well in advance during the peak seasons.
Weather
The annual average temperature of the island is around 23C and there is a constant coastal breeze sweeping over the island which can get rather strong at times. The ‘bruma’ trade wind is famous on the island and is known to envelop entire villages with fog and give them a haunting look. Summer days can get extremely hot with temperatures getting into the high 30Cs on many days and averaging at around 30C in August. All of the Canary Islands enjoy relatively warm winters making them ideal locations for winter breaks. Temperatures in December and January often reach 20C making sunbathing at Christmas a reality! However, the trade winds have a huge effect on the island and it may be just as likely for December temperatures to be nearer 10C. The island is relatively dry all year round, with most rain falling in late autumn and early winter.
Transport
There are three flights a day that connect the island with the main airport in Tenerife and two flights per week from and to Gran Canaria. There are also flights to La Palma. There is a limited bus service that connects the attractions and main towns that runs in the mornings and afternoons, however, there are no evening services so care should be taken not to miss the last bus! There are absolutely no train services anywhere on the island.
Exploring the volcanic island of El Hierro by car is the best way to see everything and have peace of mind about getting home. There are three car rental companies in Valverde. There are regular ferry trips out of La Estaca harbour to and from Tenerife and La Gomera. Taxis are an expensive way of getting around El Hierro and don’t line the streets as they do in the major resorts of Spain. Taxis are, however, readily available at the airport. There are also plenty of cabs available to book by telephone.
