History
The first settlers arrived on La Gomera around 5000 years before the birth of Christ. It is not clear exactly where they originated from, however it is suspected they either travelled from north-Africa or were part of the Megalithic culture. The ancient settlers on the island are believed to be independent from any other culture and were farmers, shepherds and fishermen. It is also believed that the ancient Canarian people lived by principles of equality and perhaps a primitive form of democracy.
When the Spanish arrived on La Gomera, the island was split into four different regions. After Bethencourt completed Spain’s invasion of nearby islands, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, he quickly switched his attentions to La Gomera; howver, an early invasion attempt was unsuccessful after Spanish forces were met with ferocious resistance from the inhabitants of the island. A later attack would only be enough to defeat two of the four tribes of La Gomera. The Spanish authority over the island was sporadic over the following years until 1447 when Hernan de Peraza gained overall control of La Gomera. It would take Spanish forces until 1488 to defeat the last remaining tribes, under the control of Alfonso Fernandez de Lugo who had also conquered nearby Tenerife and La Palma.
During the 14th and 15th centuries, the island developed a healthy economy as a trader of sugar cane, locally produced wine and red dye from cochineal beetles. The local economy collapsed, however, after the invention of synthetic dye, many of the inhabitants fled to the Americas to avoid starvation. Since 1982 and the formation of the autonomous community of the Canary Islands, La Gomera has had the chance to elect local officials. La Gomera is part of the province of Tenerife.
Population
The population of the island is around 21,000 with over 8,000 of those living in the capital, San Sebastian. The local economy is heavily dependent on tourism, however, there are export businesses that trade in bananas, wine and cheese.
Places to Visit
Agulo – Located to the north of the island and is a typically Canarian village with picturesque streets and white-washed houses. At the highest point, there are excellent views of Tenerife.
Alajero – This is another of the island’s beautiful villages and is steeped in history and local tradition. There are stunning landscapes and coastline to enjoy with many different types of plant-life in the surrounding countryside.
Chipude – This is a village located in the mountains and is thought to be the oldest settlement in La Gomera.
Garajonay National Park – The park is protected by the Spanish authorities and is also a site of world heritage as laid out by UNESCO. The park boasts spectacular scenery and is a popular location for hikers and nature enthusiasts.
Hermigua – This town is located on the north east coast and is yet another fine example of a typical Spanish village that has been inhabited for many hundreds of years.
Valle Gran Rey – The Valley of the Great King is a hugely popular tourist destination on the island. The picturesque gardens and spectacular cliff-faces also make the area one of outstanding beauty. The beach area of Valle Gran Rey is a vibrant, yet relatively sedate, area of the Canary Islands where people can enjoy authentic Canarian cuisine while looking out at the stunning views of the ocean. There are also a number of high quality bars in the area.
Cuisine
The cuisine in La Gomera is typical of most found all over the Canary Islands. It is very simple in its ingredients, yet full of rustic flavour and the freshest ingredients. The restaurants on the island all offer traditional Spanish favourites along with some specialities of the Canary Islands. Almogrote is a popular starter in La Gomera and consists of a puree, made with tomatoes, spicy peppers, garlic and local goat’s cheese. Another dish favoured on the island is potaje de berros which is a local soup made with pork ribs, potatoes, beans and fresh cress. Garbanzas is also very popular, consisting of peas, various meats and wine.
As with most areas of Spain, the menus are full of fish dishes in La Gomera. Most of the restaurants on La Gomera use fish caught locally by fisherman based on the island. The best dishes are grilled and are denoted by the words, ‘a la plancha.’ There is just about every type of fish available on the island although the favourites are pike, perch, sole and bream. A speciality specific to La Gomera is vieja or parrotfish.
The Canarian tastes are for rustic stews and the locals of La Gomera are no exception. Conejo en salmonejo is rabbit in a white wine sauce and is one of the island’s favourite delicacies. Other favourite meat dishes include pork chops (chuleta) and fillet steak (solomillo). The restaurants generally cook the local steaks one of two ways: poco hecho, which is medium-rare or bein hecho, which is well-done. Salads are very popular on La Gomera, however, lettuce is not widely available so salads usually consist of locally grown tomatoes, onions, olives and peppers.
Just like the other Canary Islands, La Gomera has a sweet tooth and there are many local specialities to try. Frangollo is a local corn pudding that is extremely popular. Principe de Alberto is a dessert of chocolate cream and almonds while a huge favourite amongst the locals is quesillo, which as a caramel based dessert.
Accommodation
The island of La Gomera is picturesque and strict local government planning regulations are designed to keep it that way. The developments are never more than two storeys, are white washed and actually add to the beautiful countryside and coastlines of the island. Popular destinations include Valle Gran Rey which enjoys both stunning mountain landscapes and picturesque a coastline. There are a number of local guest houses and small hotels in the town as well as some authentically Spanish holiday homes.
Weather
The climate on the island of La Gomera is extremely consistent making it an ideal time to visit at any time of the year. It is warm throughout the year with very little variation between the seasons. Average temperatures in July and August are around 30C, although it is not uncommon for temperatures to reach the high 30Cs on occasions. There are also plenty of hours of sunshine all year round and even the winter months enjoy more hours of sun than any of the European resorts.
Temperatures in the winter are usually around 20C and rain is relatively rare with rainy periods only lasting a day or two. There are, however, large differences in micro-climates on the island. The north of the island can be colder and wetter than the south due to the strong influence of the Garajonay Mountain, which is a mile high. For the most consistent weather, the south of the island is the best option.
Transport
There are regular bus services between the main areas of San Sebastian, Valle Gran Rey, Santiago and Vallehermoso. These buses are extremely popular during the peak seasons and it is not always possible to get everyone on! This situation is made worse if a ferry has just landed from one of the neighbouring Canary Islands. The fares are very reasonable but drivers are extremely strict about only stopping at designated bus stops. The buses are blue and tickets are bought from the driver.
There are two major car rental firms on the island and many will meet tourists at the ferry terminal with the car, if booked in advance. Petrol is extremely cheap on the island. Although it is only 22km from one end of the island to another, it will take an hour and a half to drive, although the journey takes in all of the island’s fantastic scenery. Taxis are available in the main towns and are very reasonably priced.
There is no international airport on La Gomera, so the majority of tourists reach the island by ferry from Tenerife.
