History
Recent archaeological finds suggest that people have inhabited the island of La Palma since around 200 BC. The native ‘Guanches’ are thought to have made it over the sea from north Africa and made the island their permanent home. The Guanches lived a very primitive lifestyle, inhabiting mostly caves and using the most primitive of tools and utensils. There are still very strange carvings in the caves of the island that are still to be translated.
The island was largely forgotten for centuries until Italian and Portuguese raiders began pillaging the Canaries for slaves and commodities in the 13th century. After several unsuccessful attempts, the Canary Islands were conquered in the late 15th century and many of the native Guanches fled the island. Those remaining were enslaved for a time and forced to convert to Christianity. La Palma became an important trading post for the Spanish and its port became the third largest in Spain’s empire, after Seville and Antwerp. The island enjoyed a very successful trade in sugar cane with the Americas and became a stop off for explorers and traders alike. As the trade for sugar declined, the island began to produce wine and a very successful export business was established.
Population
The island of La Palma is located in the Canary Islands and with a land mass off 706km2, it is the third smallest of the main islands. The total population of the whole island is around 86,000 permanent residents. Around 18,000 people live in the capital of Santa Cruz and a further 20,000 live in Los Llanos de Aridane.
Places to Visit
The island of La Palma is much more laid-back than Tenerife and Gran Canaria and offers a quiet holiday, away from the noise of the major resorts. There are plenty of places to visit and the authentic Canarian restaurants give a true reflection of the area’s cuisine. The island has a huge array of different landscapes and climates with everything from volcanic mountains to tropical rainforests, all within a few miles of each other.
Santa Cruz – The island’s capital, this pretty port town is packed with historic buildings, tiny cobbled streets and authentic local shops and restaurants to enjoy.
Plaza de Espana – This is a beautiful area of the island and is home to several homes built hundreds of years ago.
Calle de O’Daly – This is home to the Palacio de Salazar and many festivals, cultural events and local excursions to other areas of the island.
Avenida Maritima – This is home to a stunning waterfront, quaint Spanish buildings, many of which are brightly painted. There are also many homes with beautiful wooden balconies.
Casa de Tobacco – This is home to the locally produced cigars and visitors get the chance to see them in production.
Los Llonos – Located on the west coast of the island, this is the home of many fiestas and concerts. There is also an indoor market where locally caught fish, local goat’s cheese and fresh vegetables can be purchased.
Roque de los Muchachos – This is the island’s largest mountain, standing at 2400 metres. There is an observatory at the top which offers incredible views of the island.
The island attracts many hikers who are keen to try out the ‘Volcano Route’ which is a 7 hour walk around the volcanic region of the island. There are also regular ferry trips to the nearby islands of El Hierro and La Gomera.
Cuisine
While the island doesn’t have the large selection of international cuisines of Tenerife and Gran Canaria, there are a number of local Spanish restaurants that serve up the traditional cuisines of the mainland. However, no visit to the island is complete without sampling the delights of authentic Canarian cuisine. The food of the island is diverse and while seafood plays a huge part, there are some other dishes that are specific to the island and have existed for centuries.
The islanders tend to eat very simple dishes that are quickly prepared and contain lots of vegetables. The taste on the island is for light foods with very little fat. Mojo sauces are served all over the Canary Islands and come in a vast amount of different colours and flavours! One of the local favourites is called Sancocho. This is a traditional stew made with sea bream, wreckfish and stone bash. It is the speciality of the island and is served in most of the local restaurants. The Canarian favourite, Gofio, is also used widely around the island. It is a flour, made from cereals and is the basis for many dishes including bread stews and desserts.
Cheese is produced all over the Canary Islands and La Palma is no different. There are many varieties produced on the island and many are consumed all over Spain. Of all the meats used on La Palma, pork is the most popular. The meat is mostly used in stews and soups, although a local favourite is the specially marinated roasted leg of pork. Potatoes are used a lot in the island’s cuisine and a local starter or side dish is ‘papas arrugadas.’ These are ‘wrinkled potatoes,’ prepared in boiling, salted water and served with a selection of mojo sauces – they are great as a starter or a snack with drinks.
Accommodation
La Palma is subject to stringent planning laws. This means that the high-rise hotels and apartment blocks that are prevalent in Tenerife and Gran Canaria simply don’t exist here. The towns of Santa Cruz and Los Llanos have the widest range of apartments and hotels. There are also great selections of hotels in Los Cancajos and Puerto Naos. The island is also home to a selection of exquisite cottages that offer a unique and traditional place to stay. Locally named ‘casitas,’ they can be booked privately on the island or found on the government website, www.islabonita.com
For those on a tight budget, Los Llanos is home to a very cheap but clean hostel and there are several designated campsites on the island.
Weather
There is a pleasantly warm and sunny climate on the island all year round. The north-eastern trade winds and cool north-east current do cool things down somewhat on the island. Rainfall varies greatly in different parts of La Palma. The south of the island is quite dry and sunny and the north is wetter. The differences in vegetation across the island are staggering. The summers are extremely dry, particularly in the southern areas of the island. However, 140mm can fall on Santa Cruz in November alone. Even the wettest periods only last a day or two and are closely followed by more warm sunshine.
Average temperatures in the summer months are around 28C and 18C in the winter months. The island is popular all year round due to the relatively small fluctuations in seasonal temperatures. Sea temperatures are also very warm with an average of 22C in the summer months and 15C in winter. Most of the Canary Islands are popular with snorkelers and scuba divers. The island is very occasionally affected by mild sandstorms that travel across the ocean from the Sahara dessert. These are nothing to be concerned about and are actually quite an interesting phenomenon.
Transport
The airport is situated only 8 kilometres from Santa Cruz and many charter flights operate from European airports all year round. There are several taxis available for transfers from the airport as well as regular bus services into Santa Cruz. The main towns also have a plentiful supply of taxis although care should be taken as some drivers can try to negotiate fares instead of using a meter. Car hire is a good way around the island, although journeys can be long due to the mountainous terrain. The island has a limited public bus system, however, it doesn’t cover many of the towns and attractions on La Palma so booking official excursions is the best way of seeing everything.
